It's the reason i go to bed before it's fully dark and wake up every morning before dawn.
it is why the prevailing winds are my preferred topic of conversation
and my wetsuit, my most consistent fashion statement.
it is the one thing i have that i actually own
because it owns me.
it is the next wave, and it's mine.


  1. Lovely!!


  2. all of these photos are so wonderful. im in need of a surf adventure. glad its almost friday :)
    peace & love

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